Why Run Tubeless Part 3

Why Run Tubeless? Part 3

With all the hype and benefits of running tubeless are you going to convert your setup?  If money is no object I would say go for it.  A nice set up would be Mavic’s Crossmax SLR Wheelset, (1,440 claimed grams), Schwalbe’s UST Fat Albert 2.4 front (995g) and 2.25 rear (890g). A 3,325 gram wheelset? No more flats? Better performance? I say yes please. I'm sure there are many UST wheel setups that are lighter or heavier but is it worth that price tag is the question. For around $1,400 after some discount shopping, valve cores and some sealant, the price can get higher and higher but the benefits out on the trail are priceless. That is where the debate begins.

   

For all the down hill riders, have you seen the Deemax Ultimate? If I don’t end up getting the new Easton Havoc’s UST wheelset, hello Deemax Ultimate, 1,965 bombproof grams and UST. 

Where the majority of mountain bikers are leaning towards are your standard (non-UST) rims being converted with a conversion kit, Stan’s conversions or Caffelatex conversions, and a tubeless ready tire. Not all wheelsets will convert easily or even at all. I have read the pre 2012 Easton Havocs have a tall side wall and makes it hard to convert to tubeless with a conversion kit if even at all. Even on converted rims, regular folding tires are used in some cases rather than a tubeless ready or a full UST tire. Although not all converted wheel setups will work as in any case but converting your rims with a conversion kit is definitely a popular method of converting to tubeless these days. With a broad mix of tire types you can use (regular tubed, tubeless ready, and UST tires), this is a very forgiving tubeless set up.

Last but not least and definitely not recommended is the ghetto tubeless set up. Where the UST and tubeless tires fail with the UST rims and converted wheelsets, comes into play the ghetto tubeless setup. With a huge warning when attempting this setup, it is very clever, cheap, and easy. With it all being home made and with no standards, there is no compatibility guarantee, as this is all trial and error converting. With that being said saving a couple bucks on a tubeless set up is not worth you're tire exploding as your landing sideways into that huge berm next to a cliff!
Now with the warnings out of the way and fear struck in you to not try it, there are some awesome set ups out there I have seen that blow away a UST tire and UST rim set up on weight and price, not saying it is safer though. I have a pair of 2010 Easton Havoc AM’s I am going to try ghetto converting. I have heard some good results converting these rims ghetto tubeless because of the high sidewalls. I will pick up some 20” tubes and get to work.

Check back for some ghetto tubeless details and installation pics.

Why Run Tubeless? Part 2

Why Run Tubeless? Part 2

  For the best choice on a UST or Tubeless set up, make sure you will be using proper UST (Universal System for Tubeless) or tubeless equipment.  There are many companies out now offering UST systems and coming up with there versions or names for UST such as TLR, TNT, Tubeless Ready, Tubeless Light, No Tubes, 2bliss, TCS to name a few.  What does all this mean?  Best I can sum it up is:

• Tube type - designed for use with a tube
• Tubeless ready - UST bead but designed for use with sealant
• UST - UST bead and an airtight casing that does not require sealant to hold air

UST compatible systems should allow you to install the tires by hand and inflate with a standard floor pump. The tires will have an extra layer of rubber inside the carcass to seal against leaks. They do not have to be used with a liquid sealant. Of course this all matters if you’re using a UST rim or not. Not all tires, and not all rims, will hold in place when inflated without a tube.

Do I use a sealant with my UST tire and UST rim? As tire pressure is such a big personal preference so is the sealant on full UST wheel sets. A full UST system can hold air with out sealant but will leave you with a flat on the trail and force you to throw in a tube to make it back home. Sealant is definitely recommended in all tubeless or tubeless ready set ups for added seating/leaking protection, thorn and puncture resistance, burping, and just plain confidence. Mavic’s UST rims are a very popular choice for tubeless setups as they teamed up with Hutchinson to create UST standards.  Easton, DT Swiss, SunRingle, Shimano, and Stan’s are all some more brands that offer UST or Tubeless ready versions that also work great.

Tires tires tires…. There are so many options to choose from with so many tire versions. I can read for hours and hours on all the different setups of different tires with different rims with this sealant and what works and does not work. I can’t tell you the perfect set up or wheel and tire match as every individual will install their rim tape or strip or sealant and valve their own way.  Just stay with the basics; almost any tubeless ready or UST tire will mount to a UST rim. Some will require sealant and some will not. Most tubeless ready tires will mount to a tubeless ready rim or a regular tubular rim that has been converted correctly as a tubeless rim. This setup will require sealant but have heard of stories not needing sealant when using certain UST tires on a Tubeless ready or converted tubeless rim. (Not Recommended) Just be careful and do your research.  I have heard of a leading brand tire not being a good choice for a tubeless converted rim because the bead is too tight and makes it a pain to seat correctly and unserviceable out on the trails. Others like that fact that it has a tight bead and is harder to get the tire on and off.  

 

There are quite a few different sealants on the market today. Stan’s NoTubes Sealant, Caffelatex, Slime, and Super Juice are a couple popular brands. There is no wrong sealant, if you’re confident in the sealants sealing power and you’re happy using that product I would say do not turn back. Whether you like a liquid, Foam, Gel, or making your home brew concoction with glitter, antifreeze or whatever, you will have to find the right sealant that works well with the tire and rim you are using. What is your working tubeless set up? Feel free to post a comment; it might spark up a conversation on my part 3 discussing the full set up and overall benefits of running tubeless.

Why run Tubeless?

Why Run Tubeless? Part 1

  The hype surrounding tubeless has built to a tipping point and remains strong in peoples mind every time they get a flat or set out to buy new tires. Running tubeless wheels are becoming a huge choice in the mountain bike world. As every mountain biker’s worst enemy is a flat tire, why not switch to tubeless? What makes the Tubeless setup beneficial?

While not go into to much detail there are just about as many benefits to running your wheels tubeless as there are reasons to not run tubeless.  If you are running a UST tire and UST rim with sealant such as Stan’s or Caffelatex you will have the benefit of running your tires at a much lower PSI than you could have with a regular tire and tube. With a lower PSI you will have the benefit of better traction and control when on the trails. You’re also going to have a less rotational weight to work against you when pedaling up those hills or sprinting out of the gates. Best of all, no more pinch flats!

From a performance standpoint, tubeless tires are hard to beat. Tubeless tires don't pinch flat so they let you run lower tire pressures. Lower tire pressure is the best way to improve a tires contact with the ground and with that comes better bike performance. That said, tire pressure is one of the most influential adjustments you can make to your bikes performance. While it is tempting to go with the lightest tires you can find it is more important to get a tire that will perform well for your specific riding needs and won't end up forcing you to put a tube in later. While a good sealant will plug most punctures you’d encounter on a ride, no amount of sealant will plug a good cut or tear in a tire with a thin sidewall. So don't base your decision solely on how much weight you can shed from your wheels. Some systems are lighter, some heavier; it all depends on the system and the tires used. The real benefits of tubeless are better performance from lower tire pressures and fewer flats.

On the flipside, there are a few drawbacks of running Tubeless. Making the switch can be expensive and that is one of the main drawbacks. Not only are the UST tires and the UST wheels more expensive but you also have to buy sealant, not to mention you will still be carrying a tube for back up in your bag. Depending on your tubeless setup, getting the sealant installed can be a messy job as well. If you’re on the trail and get a major flat that causes your tire to loose most of it’s air, you are going to need a CO2 inflator with an extra cartridge or two to get going again not to mention a new jersey. Yes, a new jersey and cleanup, some punctures will literally have your sealant spraying out of the tire until it seals itself all over your bike, cables, and that brand new Fox Jersey!

Set ups, where to even start: UST, Tubeless Ready, 2Bliss, Ghetto Tubeless, Non-UST, Standard, Conversion kits, or the homebrew concoction you make in the back yard to seal up the holes (anti-freeze, glitter, pepper). In the end it is all personal preference with compatibility being the big issue. Choose the wrong tires or rims and you will end up blowing your tires right off the rim during installation or on the trail. Next time, in this three part series, we’ll take a look at the different set-ups in further detail and help you figure out which is right for you.